Feed on

Archive for January 2013

RedTedorigawaOpen.jpgThis last weekend I experimented with printing on book cloth, something I have never done before. The printer is old and managed to print most of the cover I wanted to use. As you can see, it smudged on the left side and didn't complete printing the Tedorigawa logo - just the top part.

The book itself is one of many experiments and attempts at improving my bookbinding skills. It has about seven signatures of five sheets each which makes it a 140-page book. However, the pages are made up of misprints from another A5 size book I made - a schedule RedTedorigawa.jpgbook. The point of this book is the printing and the Measuring of the Spine Cover.

The spine cover is pretty well aligned and equal on both sides of the spine. The red book cloth is glued on fairly well, too. In fact, except for the printing part and the misprints on the inside, this is a fairly good book.

The good part is I am happy to try printing on book cloth again; this time with a newer, cleaner printer.


Read Full Post »

TedFront.jpgThis is a 128-page, A6 (41/4" x 6"),  lined business card. I plan to pass these out to bricks-and-mortar stores that allow me to place my other books on their shelves. Similar to the "T" book in Episode 93, down below a few flicks of your mouse. It has my contact info on each page plus my photo at the end. What store could refuse them?

The book has left over handmade book cloth on the back cover. The original bookcloth can be seen in Episode 84, a few more mouse clicks down the pike. The front cover is made up of three items:

TedBack.jpg1. Blue craft paper.

2. A label from a local sake (酒) named Tedorigawa - in fact this Japanese says "Tedorigawa". First, of course, I had to empty the bottle, then soak it in the sink for a few hours to get the label off.

3. A loop of very flexible metal that I found in my "To use later" pile of cr... supplies. I thought with the silver of Tedorigawa, it fit nicely. Also, it makes it harder to pile other books on top of it so that store owners will keep it on top and accessible. And visible. Mainly, though, I just thought it looked nice.

TedOpen.jpgIt is also one of the few books that I cut the fore edge to make it straight when the book is closed. Usually, I don't cut it but lately I've been thinking I should. Or it depends on the book. Some people think a book with an uncut fore edge looks 'incomplete' or 'unfinished'. I think they look rough and natural but, well, you know some people, eh?

CalvadoCoverSmall.jpgMeanwhile, the ongoing saga of re-writing and editing of Calvado: A Deadly Love Store continues. I was hoping to get it up on Smashwords (links to my Venetian Slime Woman: a Biological Love Story) by the end of January (2013) but this is looking doubtful as I found a few major plot holes. It is still a good book but I want to make it the best I can and one that you can enjoy. I work on it everyday so hopefully, you'll be able to get a copy before the end of the year (2013).

And, why are the pictures all upside down?


Read Full Post »

I had a couple of problems with making books that I decided to clear up. The first slight confusing thing is the alignment of the edges (top and bottom) of the covers. The second confusion is measuring the width of the book cover. To align the edges, I checked out this video on YouTube: Bookbinding Casing in by TJ Book Arts. http://youtu.be/AHT3NXYoUTk.

PurpleSlacker1.jpgShe uses a strip of craft paper. She glues the spine on the paper, measures the joint, then glues the book boards on. In this way, you can instantly tell if the head and tail edges are aligned or not. When you put the text block in and close the covers, you can also see how much of an overhang you have. (Or square of the book, if you will.)

The second problem, the width of the book boards has a variety of solutions. Some teachers and videos just eyeball it and it works out. I need a more concrete solution. The one I've been using is text block - joint width + 2.5 mm. I use 2.5 mm because when I cut the book board height, I use text block + 5 mm. This gives me a 2.5 square.

For the joint width, I generally use this formula: thickness of the board x 3.5. A 2 mm thick board gets a 7 mm joint width. A 1 mm thick board gets a 3.5 mm joint width. And a couple of days ago, I decided to sit down and really work out these two problems. I measure carefully, I used the strip of craft paper and when I put the text block in the casing? I found a big problem: Too little space on the fore edge. I simply cut the craft paper and adjusted it all.

PurpleSlackerOpen.jpgThe end result was The Purple Slacker. This is a 120-page lined journal with, I think, excellent square (overhang between text and edge of the book cover) and great alignment.

But the main result is the increase in confidence in building books. Remember, though, that an increase in confidence doesn't necessarily mean an increase in competence. I hope, however, that competence will follow.


Read Full Post »